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Husky Farmhouse Table
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Husky Farmhouse Table
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Hello DIY Friends!
I hope you had a wonderful weekend! Can you believe it is still snowing up here in Alaska? I can't either, and I tell you what, I am ready to be working outdoors on projects. If you get a second, point your fans north and blow some of your hot weather toward us, will you?
We have been busy getting the odds and ends complete on the downstairs of the Momplex (I'll be posting an update for you later this week) and then finishing up the drywall downstairs. I've been told to order flooring, doors and moulding - how crazy is that? I know we aren't getting Mom moved in by this weekend (sorry Mom!), but we are feeling so great about how things are moving along (haha I'm not trying to be punny!).
You know we've been working double time now, right? That's right, we took on another job. Darn little nieces are just too cute!
Well, of course, I'm going to be building (or helping build - my sister wants to build her own furniture too!) furniture for my nieces as well. And I've already been working on projects in my spare time.
I was just thinking about something as I was putting together these photos. I often get magazines asking for "amazing before and after photos" to showcase my work, and I kinda give them a funny look and say, "but my before photos are a pile of 2x4s."
When we build furniture, it's not always about dramatic room transformations. It's not always about magazine-worthy after photos.
It's about this:
Our befores-and-afters are about making our lives better. Having a place to eat dinner. Getting mattresses off floors, corralling toys into toyboxes, books into shelves ....
But I won't tell you a lie ... making something pretty doesn't hurt either :)
My sister and I put this table together surprisingly quick - in just a few hours. She wanted a "planked top" look made of 2x6s, so that took a little longer to get the top really flat and level (no rocking plates on this tabletop!). We love you belt sander. You could be smarter than us and use tongue and groove for the top. But I promise you, you won't get an arm workout like we did.
I gave the legs an authentic old world finish and will be sharing that tutorial with you next week - it's actually a pretty easy finish to achieve!
And of course, we got you covered with the free Farmhouse Table plans following!
Also giving a shout-out to the folks at Osborne Wood for providing the legs for this table. The legs are just massive, and retail for about $50 a leg for the legs shown. You will be shocked at how giant these legs are! Thank you Osborne Wood!
Shopping List:
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
7 - 2x6 @ 72" long (you may consider using 2x6 tongue and groove for a easier finishing option but as shown in photos, I used 2x6s kreg jigged together and then sanded flat on top with a belt sander)
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2" finish nails
wood glue
Tools:
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions:
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Dimensions:
Dimensions are shown above
Cut List:
2 - 2x4 @ 58" (side aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 26" (end aprons)
2 - 1x2 @ 26" (end apron trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 58" (side apron trim)
7 - 2x6 @ 72" (tabletop boards)
2 - 2x4 @ 26" (end aprons)
2 - 1x2 @ 26" (end apron trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 58" (side apron trim)
7 - 2x6 @ 72" (tabletop boards)
Step 1:
First things first, drill all the pocket holes in the aprons. You'll need two per apron end, and then ever 8" or so, a 1 1/2" pocket hole facing upward for attaching the tabletop later on.
When you go to attach the legs to the aprons, make sure you have the pocket holes pointing upward - I make this mistake all the time - doh! - but you are probably way smarter than me!
Step 2 Instructions:
This is really just to add that decorative touch to the underside.
Another option for those of you with a table saw is to use 2x6s for the aprons and then cut a small groove with the tablesaw at the base of the aprons to give the look of multiple boards.
NOTE: You can also add corner cross supports, but we found the table really didn't need it. It's up to you!
Step 3 Instructions:
Now build the top. If I can say anything about this top it's this: GET STRAIGHT BOARDS. Mine were a little crooked and so I ended up having to use long bar clamps to pull everything together tight as I attached pocket holes.
Clamp, clamp and clamp!
If your ends end up a little off, no bigge there, just run a circular saw down the ends to clean them up.
I think part of this table's charm is the planked top, but to make it more functional, we belt sanded the top flat, and then silicone any gaps to prevent food from sticking in cracks.
Not trying to scare you - this wasn't hard - it's just my sister's got kids between 6 months and 9, and we are preparing this table for real life use and abuse.
Step 4 Instructions:
Now flip the tabletop over so all the pocket holes are facing up and place the base on it. Then just start attaching through those predrilled pocket holes into the tabletop.
Flip it over (it's gonna be heavy!) and the building part is done!
Preparation Instructions:
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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